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Summer Birthday Bash

A menu meant to feed and please a crowd, with a little something for every taste, created in honor of my parents, who will both celebrate turning 80 this year. Throw red and white checkered clothes on the picnic tables and keep the ice cold lemonade coming. Well, all right, keep the Pinot Grigio coming. It’s summer, and it’s a party . . .

Hamburgers with Sautéed Mushrooms and Cheddar Cheese

Oven Roasted Pork Spare Ribs

Lime and Garlic Chicken Thighs

Simple Spicy Navy Beans

Sautéed New Potatoes with Bacon and Onion

Old-fashioned Chopped Salad

Marinated Green Bean and Mozzarella Salad

Chocolate Rum Cake

Apple, Raisin and Walnut tart

Hamburgers with Sautéed Mushrooms and Cheddar Cheese


Start with freshly ground chuck -- burgers need some fat to stay moist and flavorful during grilling. A trick to help keep burgers juicy is to work in ¼ to ½ cup of ice water into each pound of meat. Do so with a light touch. Season with salt and pepper and form into desired patty size. While burgers are grilling or before they hit the heat, slice button mushrooms and sauté in butter over medium heat. When they are nearly cooked through and golden brown, add one or more tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce. Allow to cook one minute more, turning mushrooms with a spatula. Keep warm. When burgers are nearly finished grilling, top with slices of sharp cheddar cheese. Serve on warmed buns with the mushrooms and a thin slice of onion.


Oven Roasted Spareribs
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This recipes successfully skips the parboiling often called for in sparerib preparation. Frankly, I don’t miss it. Serves four moderate appetites.

4 lbs. pork spareribs

Kosher salt, coarsely ground pepper, sugar, cumin, paprika, garlic powder, chili pepper or cayenne

Prepared barbeque sauce, or homemade (see recipes)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place ribs in two baking pans, cutting into smaller sections if necessary. Sprinkle one side lightly with the salt, pepper, and spices listed above, then turn over and sprinkle the other side. Loosely cover the roasting pans with a tent of aluminum foil. After 45 minutes, remove from oven. Remove foil and lower heat to 300 degrees. Pour off fat if it is excessive. If there’s just a little, don’t worry about it. Flip the ribs, season with spices again, very lightly, and return to the oven.

At two hours of roasting, remove the ribs from the oven, Again, pour off excessive fat (do leave a little, please). Check to see if the ribs are tender. They will likely need another half hour of roasting.

At this point, you may do one of two things. You may flip the ribs, baste with any pan juices, and again sprinkle lightly with the seasonings, or you may brush the ribs with either a prepared or homemade barbeque sauce. While I find the ribs delicious without the sauce, most folks expect some.

Commercially prepared sauces are frequently too sweet and thick. Do be sure what you have on hand is worthy of dressing your delicious ribs. Brush on lightly, and heat remaining sauce in a pan, thinning if desired with perhaps a tablespoonful of water or one of pan juices, which will impart a wonderful flavor and consistency. If you’ve no quality prepared sauce in the house, try the recipes that follows.

Return ribs to the oven to roast 15 to 20 minutes longer, without the aluminum tent. Keep sauce warm, or reheat quickly just before serving ribs, either pouring over ribs (if your family likes them sloppy) or passing the extra sauce at the table.

Barbeque Sauce

2 tablespoons corn oil

½ medium onion, finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

Pinch of crushed red pepper

1 12 ounce can tomato sauce

½ cup red wine vinegar

½ cup light brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 or 2 teaspoons paprika
freshly ground black pepper

Cayenne pepper sauce to taste

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté for five minutes, then add garlic. Cook one more minute. Add remaining ingredients, including one or two splashes of hot cayenne pepper sauce. Lower heat and simmer, stirring frequently, fifteen minutes or so, until nicely thickened. Adjust spices. Will keep for one week, well covered, in refrigerator.

Lime and Garlic Chicken Thighs
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Simple and scrumptious. A tasty contrast for the barbecued ribs. These are best hot; if preparing before hand, be sure to remove thighs from the pan juices and cover well before refrigerating. Reheat thighs separately from the defatted pan juices in a preheated 450 oven until warm; a few minutes on the grill would be perfect, too -- basted with the lime and pepper juices.

10 chicken thighs

4 or 5 large limes

4 cloves chopped garlic

3 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

3 tablespoons sugar

Freshly cracked black pepper

Olive oil

Rinse chicken thighs and place in large glass or ceramic bowl. Add water to cover, then add 3 tablespoons salt and sugar to the bowl. Stir, cover, then set aside for thirty minutes. Remove chicken, and rinse well under running water. Set aside. Clean bowl thoroughly, and return chicken. Halve two of the limes and squeeze juice into the bowl. Add 2 cloves of the minced garlic, some cracked pepper and a little salt, and two to three tablespoons of olive oil. Give this a stir to coat the chicken, then cover and allow to marinate in the refrigerator for two hours.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Coat the bottom of a large ceramic or glass baking dish with a bit of olive oil. Remove the thighs from the marinade; discard marinade. Place the thighs skin side up in the baking dish, and sprinkle with the juice of another lime, and additional salt and pepper and minced garlic. Turn them skin side down and do the same. Roast for fifteen minutes, then remove from the oven and turn the thighs skin side up. Sprinkle again with a little lime juice, and more pepper and garlic if desired. Continue roasting for up to 45 more minutes, until thighs are quite tender and skin is nicely browned. You may baste once, if desired, with pan juices, after another ten or fifteen minutes of baking. Don’t baste too closely to the time you expect to remove the thighs from the oven or the skin will not be crisp.

Once thighs are nicely done, remove from pan and set on heated platter. Pour out the pan juices, let stand for a minute, and remove as much fat that has risen to the top as possible. Test for seasoning -- it should be deliciously tart and peppery. Serve the thighs immediately, garnished with thin slices of lime if desired, and either pass the juices or spoon a bit over each thigh before plating.

Simplest Spicy Navy Beans
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Not a tomato or squirt of mustard in sight.
This is an unusual recipes for unbaked beans, slightly sweet,
marvelously tart and peppery.
Spicy enough to serve chilled or at room temperature, though better warm.


1 pound dried navy beans, rinsed and picked over water

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon cracked pepper (or 2, if you love pepper and want your sinuses cleared out)

5 tablespoons brown sugar

¼ to ½ cup red vinegar

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

Place the prepared beans in a heavy bottomed pot and add enough water to cover. Bring the beans quickly to a boil over high heat, then turn off the heat, cover the pot and allow beans to stand for one hour.

Drain the beans, rinse thoroughly and return to the pot. (Much as you might be tempted to skip this step, do take the time. Rinse the beans. Trust me. Your friends and family will thank you.) Cover again with water, about six cups or so. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then lower heat to medium low. Cover the beans and simmer for one hour, stirring occasionally.

After that first hour of cooking, check to see how much liquid has remained. You want the beans to still have a good cup and a half of liquid at this point. Add the salt, pepper, brown sugar and vinegar -- up to ½ cup for those who like things on the tart side -- and the oil and 1 tablespoon of butter. (Some say adding salt to beans while they’re cooking makes them tough -- I think this compromise works well.) Stir thoroughly, cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar, and continue to cook beans until as tender as desired -- anywhere from 30 minutes to another hour. The traditional test is that the skin will peel off the bean when you blow on it, but this can happen long before they are actually tender, so go ahead and taste to be sure. And do stir gently but frequently, and keep the mixture moist -- add a bit more water as needed, or vinegar if you’re adventuresome, during the final stages. Check seasonings before serving. Add the additional tablespoon of butter for richer flavor. The beans should have a nice zing with a slightly sweet under note.

Worst case scenario --- way too much liquid and the beans are as done as you like? Strain off the liquid into a small pot and reduce over medium high heat as necessary, then return to bean pot.


Sautéed New Potatoes with Bacon
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Excellent hot or at room temperature.

 

3 pounds new potatoes, scrubbed

2 to 4 tablespoons salted butter

1 finely chopped onion, preferably sweet Vidalia

1 cup of water, more if necessary

6 to 8 slices of cooked bacon

Fresh cracked coarsely ground pepper

Kosher salt

Chopped fresh parsley, optional

Slice the potatoes in half lengthwise or quarter if they are large. Place two tablespoons butter in a large skillet set over medium high heat. When pan is hot, add potatoes and sauté for three or four minutes. Add the chopped onion and continue to sauté for another two minutes. Season well with salt and pepper, then add 1 cup of water, cover, lower heat to medium low and simmer for five to ten minutes, until potatoes are almost as tender as desired. Stir potatoes and onion occasionally. The water should partly evaporate, but some should remain as a “dressing.” If too much evaporates, add a touch more. When potatoes are nearly done, crumble bacon and add to pan. Stir well. Cover and simmer another few minutes. Total cooking time is not likely to take more than 15 to 20 minutes. When ready to serve, add up to two more tablespoons of butter and check seasoning; toss in a scant handful of chopped fresh parsley if desired.

 

 

Old Fashioned Chopped Salad
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Crisp and lightly dressed, offered for easy picnic eating.

For the salad:

2 cups mixed salad greens

1 English cucumber, peeled

1 red bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed

1 large red onion

2 carrots

2 ribs celery

1 or 2 firm but ripe tomatoes, seeds removed

1 cup drained black olives

½ cup radishes

For the dressing:

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice or flavored vinegar of choice

½ teaspoon prepared Dijon-style mustard

1 clove garlic, minced

Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste

Garnish:

5 or 6 slices of crisply cooked bacon, crumbled

½ cup crumbled blue cheese

Chop or dice all salad ingredients as desired and add to large bowl. In a small bowl, mix the lemon juice or vinegar, mustard, minced garlic and pinch of salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil, then adjust seasonings. Dress the salad, mix lightly, and garnish with the bacon and blue cheese. Serve immediately.

Marinated Green Bean, Tomato and Mozzarella Salad
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Very pretty, light and delicious.


1 pound green beans

3 cloves garlic, slivered

1 teaspoon each sugar and salt, to cook beans

2 or 3 large ripe tomatoes

8 ounces to 1 pound fresh mozzarella

Bunch of fresh basil leaves

Extra virgin olive oil

White wine vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Use fresh tender green beans that are on the small side. Large, tough beans will not work. Snap off the ends of beans and rinse thoroughly. Bring a medium-sized pot of water to the boil. Add the sliced garlic, along with one teaspoon salt and one teaspoon of sugar. Then add the beans. When water returns to a boil, cover, lower heat and simmer until just tender, anywhere from three to seven minutes, depending on the size of the beans. Drain immediately, rinse lightly. Place the beans and the garlic slivers in a bowl and add toss with ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil and two tablespoons white wine vinegar. If necessary, add an additional tablespoon of oil and one or two teaspoons of vinegar. Beans should be lightly coated but not “swimming” in dressing. Season with salt and lots of coarsely ground black pepper. Cover and chill for several hours.

Just before serving, wash and slice two to three large ripe tomatoes, discarding cap and bottom and removing core and seeds if objectionable. Season with salt and pepper. Slice the fresh mozzarella into as many slices as you have of tomatoes. Rinse the basil leaves and let dry on paper towels. Neatly pile the beans down the center of a serving platter. Arrange the tomato slices on either side -- place one slice of mozzarella and one basil leaf on top of each tomato slice and continue, so a bit of each is exposed as you lay them in a line down the sides of the platter. Dress the tomato and mozzarella slices with extra virgin olive oil, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper.

Chocolate Rum Cake
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In honor of my friend Liz Wheeler, who served me her own delicious rum cake on my birthday. Here’s a chocolate version, which is rich and moist with, well, plenty of rum, both added to the batter and soaked in after baking. Tastes even better after a day of collecting itself. Not suitable for snack time at grade school or AA meetings.


For the cake:

1 ½ cups “mini” semi-sweet chocolate chips, for melting, plus ¾ for adding to batter

1 cup sugar

1 stick butter at room temperature

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

Pinch of salt

3 eggs

¾ milk

½ cup light rum

1 cup pecan pieces

1 cup toffee pieces

Butter and flour for prepping pan

For the rum glaze:

1 stick butter

¼ cup water

1 cup sugar

½ cup light rum

Sweetened Whipped cream

Additional toffee pieces

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Prepare a ten-inch Bundt pan by buttering thoroughly and flouring lightly. Set pan in the refrigerator. Stirring frequently, heat the 1 ½ cups chocolate chips in the top of a double boiler or over very low heat until just melted. Stir well and set aside.

Place the softened butter in a large bowl, and using an electric mixer, add the sugar gradually and cream together well. Beat in the vanilla extract and then the eggs, one at a time, until light and fluffy. Now slowly beat in the melted chocolate, a little at a time, at low speed. In separate bowl, sift or mix together the flour, baking power, baking soda, and salt. Either by hand or with the mixer at low speed, add one third to the chocolate mixture. Add the milk and mix gently again. Add another third of the flour along with the ¾ cup chocolate chips, and mix lightly. Add the rum and mix, then add the remaining flour and mix again. Avoid over-beating.

Remove the pan from the refrigerator. Sprinkle in the pecan pieces, and on top of them, sprinkle the toffee. Gently and evenly turn the batter into the pan. After 40 minutes, test to see if cake springs back when touched and if a toothpick comes out clean. If not, bake five to eight more minutes until cake is done.

Cool on rack for five minutes and then carefully invert onto cake platter which you have lined with two pieces of parchment paper, one edge of each meeting in the middle of the platter. (This will allow easy removal after glazing). Invariably, some of the pecan and toffee topping will have stuck to the pan. This is not a catastrophe. Simple remove the stuck topping with a spoon and replace it on the cake. It will settle in place and adhere without much fuss.

Allow the cake to cool 15 minutes. Meanwhile prepare the glaze. Add the water, sugar and butter to a small saucepan and place over medium high heat. Stir until butter melts and everything blends together. Bring to a boil and, stirring constantly, continue boiling for five minutes. Remove from heat. Allow to cool slightly and stir in the rum.

With a slender kabob stick, prick the cake here and there. Spoon the glaze over the top and brush the sides of cake, until the glaze is as evenly absorbed as possible. Allow cake to cool and gently remove parchment, holding cake in place with your fingers if necessary.

To serve, slice cake in healthy wedges. Top with sweetened whipped cream and a scattering of additional toffee pieces.

Apple Walnut Raisin Tart
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Rustic, gorgeous, delicious, impressive.


For the pastry:

1 ¾ cup flour

3 tablespoons sugar

1 stick butter

2 egg yolks, slightly beaten

1 tablespoon vinegar

Pinch of salt

4 to 8 tablespoons ice water

1 beaten egg yolk, to brush rolled dough

1 or 2 tablespoons sugar for dusting pastry bottom

For the filling:

6 to 8 medium sized apples (I like Granny Smiths)

Juice of one lemon

½ to ¾ cup sugar

2/3 cup chopped walnuts

½ to ¾ cup raisins

2 tablespoons Grand Marnier

1 tablespoon flour

1 teaspoon cinnamon, or more to taste

3 to 4 tablespoons of butter

Scant 2 to 3 tablespoons milk or cream

Place the raisins (if you love ’em, go with ¾ cup) in a small bowl and toss with the liqueur. Set aside.

To make the pastry, put the flour, sugar and salt into a large bowl and slice the butter into it. With a pastry cutter or two knives, cut the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles very coarse cornmeal, though with some larger pieces of butter still remaining. Add the egg yolks and vinegar and cut these into the mixture as well. Now add ¼ cup (4 tablespoons) of ice water and continue, adding more water by tablespoonfuls until the mixture holds together into a ball. (Don’t over-manipulate or moisten the mixture too much, but remember that it is easier to add a little extra flour later when rolling the dough than to try to work in more water.) Gather the dough together, wrap it in plastic and set it into the refrigerator for thirty minutes or so.

While the dough is chilling, peel, core and slice the apples and toss with the lemon juice to keep from turning brown. Set this aside.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Remove the dough from the fridge and flour a large cutting board or a clean counter. Roll out the dough into a rough circle about 18 to 20 inches in diameter. There is no need to get out a compass -- this is a rustic tart, and an “organic” shape is just fine. Roll fairly thin, ¼ inch or so, but not so thin as to make the pastry weak. Trim the edges with a sharp knife to tidy up. Transfer the pastry to a baking sheet (a perforated pizza pan works very well for this tart) lined with parchment paper -- use two sheets if necessary -- enough to form a bit of an “edge“ beyond the pastry itself.

(An easy way to transfer dough -- pizza or tart -- to the baking sheet is this: dust the dough with a little flour, then fold it gently in half. Dust the exposed side with a little more flour, and fold it once more. Moving and centering the dough this way is a snap.)

Now finish pulling together the filling. Add the sugar to the apples, in an amount that will satisfy your sweet tooth. Then add the walnuts, raisins, flour, and cinnamon, and give a healthy stir. Taste the filling and add more sugar or cinnamon if you like.

Brush the pastry with the beaten egg yolk and sprinkle with some sugar. Gently mound the filling into the center, and then spread out toward the edge, leaving free about two inches. The filling should be evenly spread. Slice the butter and scatter on top of the filling. Now fold those free edges toward the center. You will be covering some of the filling, but leaving a lovely center opening. Again, precision is unimportant. Squeeze the pastry down a bit where it falls back upon itself to form an “envelope” to hold the filling.

Brush the exposed pastry dough very lightly with a bit of the milk or cream and place the tart on the center rack of the oven. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until the crust is nicely golden-brown, the bottom is firm, and the juices are bubbling. Allow to cool completely, or at very least 30 minutes, before cutting. The juices will run all over the place if you try to serve it hot.

This tart doesn’t need ice cream or a topping of any sort. Really. It’s perfect just as it is.

Worst case scenario: the pastry splits and those wonderful juices run out onto the parchment paper. What to do? After the tart has finished baking, carefully remove from oven and set it on a flat surface. Allow it to cool a bit, then very slowly pour off the juices into a small bowl. When the tart is well cooled, sprinkle the exposed filling with the juices. The pastry will likely have “mended” itself enough to retain them. It may still be messy when you serve it -- but it will be a delicious mess, and frankly, no one will care!

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