Holiday 2004 Cahoon Farm

recipes

Okay, this year it’s your turn to host the holiday family get together. Sick of ham? Had enough turkey sandwiches to hold you for a season or two? Then try something different. Cioppino isn’t for those short on time or cash, but for a holiday celebration they’ll never forget, why not splurge?

Cioppino

Cioppino is a spicy seafood stew inspired by those hailing from the sunny coastal villages of Italy. There are many variations and methods of preparation. This recipes, zestier than most and structured around seafood nearly everyone can find in their local markets, yields enough to feed a gathering of ten or twelve, when accompanied by good breads for dipping, a simple salad and a few flavorful contouri (side dishes). For preparation, use a decent white wine . . . Nothing exorbitant, but do select something you’d find fit to drink. A flavorful Pinot Grigio would be perfect.

For the base:

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 finely diced green pepper

1 finely diced Vidalia onion

3 minced cloves of garlic

2 to 3 minced anchovy fillets

2 to 3 teaspoons dried chili pepper

2 cups white wine

2 to 3 bottles clam juice or shell stock (see recipes)

4 28 ounce cans tomato puree or lightly seasoned sauce

Tabasco sauce or other chili pepper sauce, to taste

2 tablespoons butter

For the seafood:

2 ½ pounds marinated shrimp (see recipes)

2 or 3 lobsters, 1 to 1 ½ pounds each

1 ½ to 2 pounds cod fillet

1 to 2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and soaked

The night before serving, ready the shrimp and steam the lobster. Remove the shells and tails from the shrimp, and with a sharp knife, slice down the back and remove the dark vein. Rinse the shrimp and place in a large zip-lock bag along with these ingredients:

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

½ cup white wine

½ teaspoon or more of coarsely cracked pepper

½ teaspoon Kosher salt

I teaspoon each dried oregano and chili pepper flakes

Marinate overnight, or for at least a few hours.

Here’s how to steam the lobsters yourself: Fill your largest stock pots 2/3 full of water and over high heat, bring to a boil. Use one pot for each lobster, or a huge pot for two. I have heard of a method of killing the lobsters beforehand by plunging a knife in between the eyes. Personally, I have had no luck with this. I run each lobster under a warm faucet for a moment (and thank the Universe for my blessings), then, with long handled tongs used for barbequing, very quickly submerge each into the depths of a pot full of boiling water, which knocks them out instantly. When the water returns to a rapid boil, lower the heat to medium/medium high, and continue to boil very gently for roughly 20 minutes for lobsters of 1 1/4 pounds. Lobsters closer to 1 pound will take a few minutes less, closer to 1 1/2 pounds will take a few more.

Remove the lobsters and allow to cool until you can handle them. Then, remove tail and claw meat, reserving shells. If you have time and desire, remove the small amount of meat from the little legs as well. Slice or tear the lobster meat, wrap well and refrigerate until needed. Many cooks enjoy the orange and green stuff found in the body cavity. I am not one of them, I am afraid. Frankly, those substances give me the creeps.

To make a stock from the reserved shrimp and lobster shells, add a few tablespoons of olive oil to a large frying pan with adequate sides. When hot, add the shrimp shells and stir until they turn pink. Then add a little minced garlic if desired, the lobster shells and two cups of water along with one cup of white wine, some cracked pepper and a bit of dried oregano. Lower the heat and allow to simmer for twenty minutes or so, until you have a fairly reduced and flavorful stock. Strain the stock, cover and refrigerate until needed. While not essential to the cioppino, the addition of this cup or so of stock will add another wonderful layer of flavor.

To prepare the base, heat the olive oil over a medium-high flame in a large, heavy bottomed sauce or stock pan. When hot, add the green pepper and onion and sauté until wilted but not browned. Add the garlic and anchovy fillets and cook, stirring, one more minute. Add the remaining ingredients except for the pepper sauce and butter. Bring to a low boil, then turn down the heat to medium low and allow to simmer, very gently, for 50 minutes to an hour. If, after 30 minutes or so the base seems to be getting too thick, add more wine or clam juice. After an hour or so of simmering, taste. Add some pepper sauce for extra heat if desired, and the 2 tablespoons of butter for smoothness.

Meanwhile, prepare the seafood. Heat the broiler. Remove the shrimp from the marinade and place in a single layer on a broiler pan. Broil four or so inches from the heat for just a few minutes on each side, until shrimp are nicely pink. Set aside. For the cod, heat two tablespoons of butter in a large skillet set on medium high heat. Place the cod fillets in the pan, season with salt and pepper, and gently cook on both sides for just a few minutes. Then add a little water and white wine to the pan. Cover, lower the heat, and allow the fish to cook through gently, anywhere from seven to fifteen minutes, depending on the thickness. Cook until fish is no longer translucent but not flaking too much. Break up the cod into bite sized pieces, on the large side. Cover the skillet with the lid to keep the fish warm.

Most cioppino recipes advise tossing all of the seafood right into the stew base and letting it cook. I don’t, simply because I want the fish to taste like fish, the shrimp like shrimp and so on. It’s all about maintaining the integrity of the ingredients, and when you’re spending this much money, you want the dish that appears on your table to be its very best. So while the extra steps add extra time, the chorus of approval from your family and friends will prove it all worthwhile.

You will, however, toss those scrubbed mussels into the stew to steam. Do this once the other seafood is cooked and ready to be added. The mussels ought not take more than seven to ten minutes in a gently simmering stock. Remove and discard any that do not open. Then, to finish the dish, add the shrimp, the cod and lobster pieces. Give a gentle stir, and allow the fish to heat through for a few minutes. Ladle into bowls and bring to the table immediately.

Serve with crusty breads, a simply dressed salad, a few equally uncomplicated side dishes featuring fresh vegetables -- marinated green beans, perhaps, or baby artichokes with lemon and butter.